Finishing is very very important because it is the finality in our work and what that tells us how exactly well it is done. A surface finish is primarily intended to protect wood from staining and prevent it becoming dirty. To most people, however the way a finish enhances the appearance of a work piece is perhaps the prime consideration.
Paint, Varnish and Lacquer
Paint, varnish and lacquer are similar in many ways, not the least being that they are being sprayed or more commonly brushed onto the surface of the work piece. Certain varnishes and paints are almost identical in composition, the main difference being that paint contains pigments that make it opaque and colourful.
Solvent based paint
Virtually all solvent based house hold paints are suitable for storage furniture. They are made by suspending solid pigment in a synthetic resin such as vinyl, acrylic or polyurethane. Most paint finishes are built up in layers; a primer coat, two undercoats and a glossy, matt or semi matt top coat. However, some heavily pigmented paints are designed to cover a work piece with only one coat.
Polyurethane varnish
Modern polyurethane varnish is heat resistant, water proof and extremely hardwearing. Though most varnishes are colourless, they nevertheless greatly enrich the colour of the underlying wood. There are however tinted varieties that lend the wood a definite hue without obliterating the grain pattern. Varnishes are made to dry with a high gloss, matt or semi-matt finish.
Cold cure lacquer
A cold cure lacquer does not begin to set until it is mixed with a catalyst. This type of lacquer is normally transparent but black and white lacquers are also available. Cold cure lacquer is exceptionally tough and dries with a gloss or matt finish.
Wax polishes
Wax polish is an attractive mellow finish that actually improves with age. Proprietary polishes are either translucent for finishing pale woods or are made in a range of brown shades to create a darker or antique patina.
Cream polishes
Cream wax polish, which is liquid enough to be brushed onto the wood, tends to sink into the pores. At least two or three applications are requires to build up a protective coating.
Paste polish
This is a wax polish with a thicker consistency that is applied with a ball of very fine wire wool or a lint free rag. Once the polish dries it is buffed to a shine with a soft duster.
Wood finishing oil
Oil is a traditional finish for naturally oily hardwoods such as teak but it leaves a satisfying sheen on practically any timber including softwoods. Don’t use oil on the inside of a cupboard or drawers that contain anything that would be stained by contact with oiled timber.
Danish and teak oils
Some traditionalists like to use tung oil or linseed oil, but these finishes take a minimum of 24 hours to dry between applications. Commercially prepared wood finishing oils contain additives that shorten the drying time considerably. Heat and water tend to leave white stains temporarily on an oiled surface but if they don’t disappear if their own accord you can efface them with fresh oil.
French polish
French polish is not used widely these days because it is a comparatively fragile finish. Alcohol and water leave white stains on the surface and the soft polish scratches easily. However it is a handsome finish for any traditionally styled piece of storage furniture.
Brushing French polish
Professional French polishers usually apply the finish with a soft wad called a rubber but it is a technique that takes time and practice to perfect. However, brushing French polish is manufactured with an additive that slows down the normally rapid drying process so that it can be painted onto the wood. It also produces a more durable finish than is possible with traditional French polish.
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